Proper periodic maintenance is important. Especially important are the maintenance services
related to emissions control. These controls not only function to ensure cleaner air but
are also vital to proper engine operation and maximum performance. In the following tables
of periodic maintenance, the services related to emissions control are grouped separately.

 

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM

 

No.	Item	Remarks	Initial break-in		Thereafter every
			1,000 km   (600 mi) or 1 month	5,000 km (3,000 mi) or 7 months	4,000 km (2,500 mi) or 6 months	8,000 km (5,000 mi) or 12 months
1*	Cam chain	Adjust chain tension.	O	O		o
2*	Valve clearance	Check and adjust valve clearance when engine is cold-		O		0
3	Spark plugs	Check condition. Adjust gap/Clean. Replace after initial 13,000 km (8,000 mi) or 18 months and thereafter every 12,000 km (7,500 mi) or 18 months.		O	o	Replace every 12,000 km (7,500 mi) or 18 months
4*	Crankcase ventilation system	Check ventilation hose for cracks or damage. Replace if necessary.		o		o
5*	Fuel line	Check fuel hose for cracks or damage. Replace if necessary.		o		o
6*	Exhaust system	Check for leakage. Retighten as necessary. Replace gasket(s) if necessary.		o	0
7*	Carburetor synchronization	Adjust synchronization of carburetors.		o	o
8*	Idle speed	Check and adjust engine idle speed. Adjust cable free play if necessary.		o	o

 

*lt is recommended that these items be serviced by a
Yamaha dealer or other qualified mechanic.

 

GENERAL MAINTENANCE/LUBRICATION

 

No.	Item	Remarks	Type	Initial break-in		Thereafter every
				1,000 km (600 mi) or 1 month	5,000 km (3,000 mi) or 7 months	4,000 km (2,500 mi) or 6 months	8,000 km (5,000 mi) or 12 months	16,000 km (10,000 mi) or 24 months
1	Engine oil	Warm-up engine before draining.	Refer to page 17.	O	O	O
2	Oil filter	Replace.	-	O	o		O
3	Final gear oil	Replace.	Refer to page 18.	o			o
4	Air filter	Clean with compressed air.	-		o		o
5*	Brake system	Adjust free play. Front: Replace pads if necessary. Rear: Replace shoes if necessary.	-	o	o	O
6*	Clutch	Adjust free play	-	o	o	o
7*	Control and meter cable	Apply chain lube thoroughly.	Yamaha chain and cable lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil	o	o	o .
8*	Rear arm pivot bearings	Check bearing assembly for looseness. Moderately repack every 16,000 km {10,000 mi).	Medium weight wheel bearing grease					Repack
9*	A.C. generator	Replace generator brushes. Replace at initial 13,000 km (8,000 mi) and thereafter every 16,000 km (10,000 mi)	-					Replace
10	Brake/clutch lever pivot shaft	Apply chain lube lightly.	Yamaha chain and cable lube or 10W/ 30 motor oil		0	o
11	Change/Brake pedal shaft pivot	Apply chain lube lightly.	Yamaha chain and cable lube or 10W/ 30 motor oil		o	o
12	Center and side stand pivots	Apply chain lube lightly.	Yamaha chain and cable lube or 10W/ 30 motor oil		o	o
13#	Front fork oil	Drain completely. Refill to specification.	Yamaha fork oil 10wt or equivalent					O
14*	Steering Ball Bearing and races	Check bearings assembly for looseness. Moderately repack every 16,000 km (10,000 mi).	Medium weight wheel bearing grease		o	o		Repack
15"	Wheel bearings	Check bearings for smooth rotation, Replace if necessary.	-		o	o
16	Battery	Check specific gravity. Check breather pipe for proper operation.	-		o	o

 

*It is recommended that these items be serviced by a Yamaha dealer
or other qualified mechanic.

ENGINE

A. Valve Clearance Adjustment

 

NOTE:
Valve clearance must be measured with the engine and at room temperature.

1.    Remove the seat and fuel tank.

2.    Remove the horn, flasher relay, and spark plug lead wires.

3.    Remove the cylinder head cover and left crankcase cover (pick-up base cover). Care should be taken to not scratch or damage the gasket sealing surfaces,

4.    Turn the crankshaft with the nut on the left end of the crankshaft to turn the cams. The proper position of the cam when measuring the valve clearance is with the cam lobe directly opposite the valve lifter.

5. Insert a feeler gauge between the valve lifter and the camshaft base circle.

Intake valve clearance (cold):
0.11-	0.15 mm	(0.004 ~ 0.006	in)
Exhaust valve clearance (cold):
0.16-	-0.20 mm	(0.006-0.008	in)

Adjustment

Valve clearance is adjusted by replacing the adjusting pad on the top of the vale lifter. Adjusting pads are available in 25 thicknesses ranging from No. 200 (2.00 mm) to No. 320 (3.20 mm) in steps of 0.05 mm. The thickness of each pad is marked on the pad face that contacts the valve lifter (not the cam). Adjustment of the valve clearance is accomplished as follows:

1.    Determine valve clearance (feeler gauge measurement.)

2.    Remove adjusting pad and note number.

3.    Select proper pad from appropriate chart (intake or exhaust chart).

4.    Install new pad and check installed clearance.

Procedure

1.    Measure valve clearance. If clearance is incorrect, record the measured amount of clearance. This must be measured carefully.

2.   There is a slot in the valve lifter. This slot must be positioned opposite the blade of the tappet adjusting tool before the tools is installed.

3.    Turn the cam until the lobe fully depresses the valve lifter and opens the valve. Install the tappet adjusting tool as shown to hold the lifter in this depressed position.

 

NOTE:
The tappet adjusting tool is fastened to the cylinder head securely using an alien screw. Make sure that the tool contacts the lifter only, and not the pad.

 

CAUTION:
If the cam lobe touches the tappet adjusting tool, the stress may fracture the cylinder head. DO NOT ALLOW THE CAM LOBE TO CONTACT THE TAPPET ADJUSTING TOOL.

4. Carefully rotate the cam so that the pad can be removed. To avoid cam touching the adjusting tool, turn cams as follows: (view from left side of the motorcycle) Intake: Carefully rotate CLOCKWISE. Exhaust: Carefully rotate COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

5. Remove the pad from the lifter. There is a slot in the lifter. Use a small screwdriver or other blade and tweezers or a magnetic rod to remove the pad. Note the number on the pad.

6  Proper pad selection is made as follows:

Chart lookup method:

(Use appropriate chart for exhaust or intake valves, attached to this page, below.)

a.   Find number of original (installed) pad number on chart. Read down on chart.

b.   Find measured valve clearance (from step 1) on chart. Read across.

c.   At the intersection of installed pad number (down) and measured clearance (across) is a new pad number.

 EXAMPLE:

Intake valve, installed pad:

No. 250 (read down) Measured clearance:

0.32 mm (read across) New pad number: No. 270

(intersection of down & across)

 

NOTE:
The new pad number is to be used as a guide only. Verify the correctness of this choice in the following step(s).

7.    Install the new pad in the lifter. Install the pad with the number down.

8.    Remove tappet adjusting tool,

9.   Turn crankshaft to rotate cam several rotations. This will set the pad in the lifter.

10.   Check valve clearance (step 3). If clearance is incorrect, repeat preceding steps until proper clearance is obtained.

11.    Inspect head cover gasket. If bent or torn, replace gasket.

12.    Reinstall removed parts in reverse order.

Alternate shim calculation method:

Since all shims come in .05mm (.002") increments, you can quickly calculate the required size without a chart.

If the measured clearance is within 0.05mm (0.002") of the required clearance, then no change is needed. 

If the measured clearance greater than 0.05mm (0.002") but 0.10mm (0.004") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

If the measured clearance greater than 0.10mm (0.004") but 0.15mm (0.006") or less different than the required clearance then the next size shim is required.

Clearances that are too small require thinner shims. Clearances that are too large require thicker shims.

Example: Required exhaust valve clearance is 0.16~0.20mm. Measured clearance is 0.12mm (gap too small). Installed shim is Y270. Required shim is one size thinner: Y265.

B. Cam Chain Adjustment

The cam chain becomes stretched with use, resulting in improper valve timing and engine noise. To prevent this, the cam chain tensioner must be adjusted regularly.

1.    Remove the timing plate cover.

2.   Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the "C" mark on the timing plate aligns with the stationary pointer.

3. Loosen the tensioner lock nut and then loosen the stopper bolt. This releases the cam chain tensioner with the proper tension.

1. Lock nut 2. Stopper bolt

4. Tighten the stopper bolt and lock nut.

Stopper bolt torque: 0.6 m-kg (4.3 ft-lb) Lock nut torque: 0,9 m-kg (6.5 ft-lb)

5. Reinstall the timing plate cover.

C. Ignition Timing

1. Ignition timing is checked with a timing light by observing the position of the stationary pointer and the marks stamped on the timing plate.

The timing plate is marked as follows:
n	... Firing range for No.1 (L.H.) cylinder
T	... Top Dead Center for No. 1  (L.H.) and No. 4 (R.H.) cylinders

2.    Connect the timing light to No. 1 (L.H.) spark plug lead wire.

3.   Start the engine and keep the engine speed as specified. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed.

Specified engine speed: 1,050 r/min

4. The stationary pointer should be within the limits of "PI" on the timing plate. If it exceeds the limits or does not steady, check the timing plate for tightness and/or ignition system for damage. (See "CHAPTER 6. ELECTRICAL)

 

CAUTION:
Never bend the stationary pointer.                 |

D. Air Cleaner

1. Removal

a.   Remove the seat.

b.   Remove the tool tray.

c.   Remove the air filter case cover by removing the three screws.

d. Pull out the element.

1. Air filter element

2. Cleaning method

Tap the element lightly to remove most of the dust and dirt; then blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air from the inner surface of the element. If element is damaged, replace it.

3.    Reassemble by reversing the removal procedure. Check whether the element is seated completely against the case.

4.    The air filter element should be cleaned at the specified intervals.

-15-

 

CAUTION:
The engine should never be run without the air cleaner element installed; excessive piston and/or cylinder wear may result.

E. Carburetor

 

NOTE:
The carburetors are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4 from the left when viewed from astride the motorcycle.

1.    Idle mixture

The idle mixture is set at the factory by the use of special equipment. Not attempt should be made by the dealer to change this adjustment.

2.    Synchronization

The seat must be removed and the rear of the tank elevated to gain access to the vacuum connections and throttle adjustment screws. 

 

NOTE:
The valve clearances must be set properly before synchronizing the carburetors.

a. Remove the vacuum pipe from the carburetor manifold (No. 3 cylinder) and turn the fuel petcock to "PRI".

b. Remove the rubber caps from the No. 1, 2, and 4 carburetor manifolds.

c. Connect the each vacuum gauge hose to its proper carburetor.

1. Vacuum gauge

d.  Start the engine and allow it to warm-up for a few minutes. The warm-up is complete when engine responds normally to the throttle opening.

e.  Set the engine idle at approximately 1,050 r/min.

f.   Each gauge reading will indicate the same if the carburetors are synchronized. The No. 3 carburetor has no synchronizing screw and the other carburetors are to be synchronized to it in order, one at a time.

First, synchronize carburetor No. 1 to carburetor No. 2 by turning the No. 1 synchronizing screw until both gauges read the same.

Second, in the same way synchronize carburetor No. 4 to carburetor No. 3. Third, by adjusting No. 2 screw to watch No. 3 carburetor reading, No.1 and No.2 carburetors will both change to match No. 3 carburetor.

1. Synchronizing screws

3. Idle speed adjustment

 

NOTE:
Carburetors must be synchronized before setting final idle speed. The idle speed adjustment is made by turning only one throttle stop screw.

a.   The engine must be warmed up before setting idle speed.

b.   Set the engine idle speed by turning the throttle stop screw in (to increase engine speed) or out (to decrease engine speed).

Standard idle speed: 1,050 ± 50 r/min

1. Throttle stop screw

F. Engine Oil

1. Oil level measurement a. Place the motorcycle on the center stand. Warm up the engine for several minutes. 

 

NOTE:
Be sure the motorcycle is positioned straight up when checking the oil level; a slight tilt toward the side can produce false readings.

b. With the engine stopped, check the oil level through the level window located at the lower part of the right side crank-case cover.

 

NOTE:
Wait a few minutes until the oil level settles before checking.

c. The oil level should be maximum level. If the level is lower, add sufficient oil to raise it to the maximum level. 

2. Engine oil and oil filter replacement

a.   Start, the engine and stop it after a few minutes of warm-up.

b.  Place an oil pan under the engine and remove the oil filler cap.

c.   Remove the engine and middle gear drain plugs and drain the oil.

1. Engine drain plug

1. Middle gear drain plug

d. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter element.

1. Oil filter cover

e. Re-install the drain plugs (make sure they are tight).

Drain plug torque:
Middle gear:	1.6	m-kg (11.6 ft-lb)
Engine:	4.3	m-kg(31.0ft-lb)

f. Install the new oil filter element, new "O-ring" and filter cover, tighten the oil filter bolt.

Oil filter bolt torque: 1.5 m-kg (11.0 ft-lb)

 

NOTE:
When installing the filter cover, make sure the "O-ring" is positioned properly and insert the locating projection on it into the corresponding guides on the crankcase.

1. Proper O-ring position

g. Add oil through the oil filler hole.

Periodic oil change: 2.35 lit (2.5 US qt.)

With oil filler replacement: 2.65 lit (2.8 US qt.)

Recommended oil:

h. After replacement of the engine oil, and/ or oil filter, be sure to check for oil leakage. The oil level indicator light should go off after the oil is filled.

 

CAUTION:
If the indicator light flickers or remains on, the oil level switch may be damaged. Refer to "CHAPTER 6" for corrective action.

G. Final Gear Oil

1. Oil level measurement

a.   Place the motorcycle on a level place and place it on the center stand. The engine should be cool (at atmospheric temperature).

b.   Remove the oil filler cap and check the oil level whether it is to the hole brim. If it is not up to this level, replenish oil.

 

CAUTION:
Take care not to allow foreign material to enter the final gear case.

2. Gear oil replacement

a.   Place an oil pan under the final gear case.

b.   Remove the final gear oil filler cap and the drain plug, and drain the oil.

1. Final gear drain plug

c. Reinstall and tighten the final gear drain plug.

d. Fill the gear case to the specified level.

Oil capacity: 0.20 lit (0.21 US qt.) Recommended oil: SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid gear oil

If desired, an SAE 80W/90 hypoid gear oil may be used for all conditions.

e. Reinstall the filler cap securely.

H. Compression Pressure Measurement

Insufficient compression pressure will result in performance loss and may indicate leaking valves or worn or damaged piston rings. Procedure:

1.   Make sure the valve clearance is correct.

2.    Remove the headlight fuse from the fuse box.

3.   Warm up the engine 2 ~ 3 minutes. Stop the engine.

4.    Remove the all spark plugs.

5.    Install a compression check gauge.

6.   Turn over the engine with the electric starter (make sure the battery is fully charged) with the throttle wide open until the pressure indicated on the gauge does not increase further.

Compression pressure (at sea level):

Standard.......11 kg/cm² (156 psi)

Minimum.......9 kg/cm² (128 psi)

Maximum......12 kg/cm² (171 psi)

 

WARNING:
When cranking the engine, ground the removal spark plug wires to prevent sparking.

1. Compression gauge

7.    If the pressure is too low, squirt a few drops of oil into the cylinder being measures. Measure compression again. If there is a higher reading than before (without oil), the piston rings may be worn or damaged. If the pressure remains the same after measuring with the oil, either or both the rings and valves may be the cause.

8.    Check each cylinder. Compression pressure should not vary more than specified value from one cylinder to any other cylinder.

Difference in gauge reading: Less than 1 kg/cm²(14 psi)

I. Clutch Adjustment

Free play adjustment

a.   Loosen either the handle lever adjuster lock nut or the cable length adjuster lock nut.

b.  Turn the cable length adjuster either in or out until proper lever free play is achieved.

1. Lock nut 2. Adjuster a. 2~3 mm (0.08~0.12 in)

1. Lock nut 2. Adjuster

CHASSIS

A. Fuel Petcock

If the fuel petcock is leaking or excessively contaminated, it should be removed from the fuel tank and inspected.

1.    Remove the fuel tank and position it so that fuel will not spill when the petcock is removed.

2.    Remove the petcock and inspect the filter screen. Replace the filter if seriously contaminated.

3.    Remove the screws on the front and rear of the petcock and remove the plate, gaskets, lever, and diaphragm.

4.    Inspect all components and replace any that are damaged. If the diaphragm is in any way damaged, or the petcock body gasket surfaces scratched or corroded, the petcock assembly must be replaced. If there is abrasive damage to any component, the fuel tank must be drained and flushed.

5.    Reassemble the petcock and install it on the fuel tank.

B. Front and Rear Brake

1. Brake adjustment

a. Front brake lever free play adjustment. The brake can be adjusted by simply adjusting the free play of the brake lever. The piston in the caliper moves forward as the brake pad wears out, automatically adjusting the clearance between the brake pads and brake disc.

 

CAUTION:
Proper lever free play is essential to avoid excessive brake drag.

1. Adjuster 2. Lock nut a. 5~8 mm (0.2 ~ 0.3 in)

1)   Loosen the adjuster lock nut on the brake lever.

2)  Turn the adjuster so that the brake lever movement at the lever end is 5- 8 mm (0.2 ~ 0.3 in) before the adjuster contacts the master cylinder piston.

3)  After adjusting, tighten the lock nut.

b. Rear brake pedal height adjustment

1)   Loosen the adjuster lock nut (for pedal height).

2)   By turning the adjuster bolt clockwise or counterclockwise, adjust the brake pedal position so that its top end is approximately 20 mm (0.78 in) below the footrest top end.

3)  Secure the adjuster lock nut.

 

WARNING:
After adjusting the pedal height, the brake pedal free play should be adjusted.

c. Rear brake pedal free play adjustment

1. Adjuster bolt	3. Footrest
(for pedal height)	4. Pedal height 20 mm [0.8 in)
2. Lock nut	5. Free play 20~ 30 mm (0.8-^ 1.2 in)

Turn the adjuster on the brake rod clockwise or counterclockwise to provide the brake pedal end with a free play of 20 — 30 mm (0.8-1.2 in).

 

NOTE:
Check to see whether or not the brake light operates correctly after adjusting.

2. Front brake pad and rear brake shoe

check a. Front brake pad

To check, look at the pad in front. If any pad is worn to the wear limit, replace the both pads in the caliper.

Front

1. Wear indicator

b. Rear brake shoe

To check, see the wear indicator position while depressing the brake pedal. If the indicator reaches to the wear limit line, replace the shoes.

1. Wear limit 2. Wear indicator

3. Brake fluid

Insufficient brake fluid may allow air to enter the brake system, possibly causing the brake to become ineffective. Check the brake fluid level and replenish when necessary observing these precautions:

1. Lower level

a.   Use only the designated quality brake fluid; otherwise, the rubber seals may deteriorate, causing leakage and poor brake performance.

Recommended brake fluid: DOT #3

b.   Refill with the same type and brand of brake fluid; mixing fluids may result in a harmful chemical reaction and lead to poor performance.

c.   Be careful that water or other contamination does not enter the master cylinder when refilling. Water will significantly lower the boiling point and may result in vapor lock.

d.   Brake fluid may erode painted surfaces or plastic parts. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately.

C. Tubeless Tires and Aluminum Wheels

This motorcycle is equipped with aluminum wheels designed to be compatible with either tube or tubeless tires. Tubeless tires are installed as standard equipment.

 

WARNING:
Do not attempt to use tubeless tires on a wheel designed for use only with tube-type tires. Tire failure and personal injury may results from sudden deflation. Tube-type Wheel — Tube-type tires only Tubeless-type Wheel — Tube-type or Tubeless tires When using tube-type tires, be sure to install the proper tube also.

To insure maximum performance, long service, and safe operation, note the following precautions:

1.   Check tire pressure, before riding, adjust as necessary.

2.    Before operation, always check the tire surfaces for wear and/or damage; look for cracks, glass, nails, metal fragments, stones, etc. Correct any such hazard before riding.

3.   Always inspect the aluminum wheels before a ride. Place the motorcycle on the center stand and check for cracks, bends or warpage of the wheels. Do not attempt even small repairs to the wheel. If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced.

4.   Tires and wheels should be balanced whenever either one is changed or replaced. Failure to have a wheel assembly balanced can result in poor performance, adverse handling characteristics, and shortened tire life.

5.   After installing a tire, ride conservatively to allow the tire to seat itself on the rim properly. Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider.

6.   After repairing or replacing a tire, check to be sure the valve stem lock nut is securely fastened. If not, torque it as specified.

Tightening torque:

0.15 m-kg (1.1 ft-lb)

D. Front Fork Oil Change

 

WARNING:
Fork oil leakage can cause loss of stbility and safe handling. Oil may contaminate front brakes causing loss of braking ability. Have any problem corrected before operating the motorcycle.

Warning:
Securely support the motorcycle so there is no danger of it falling over.

1. Raise the motorcycle or remove the front wheel so that there is no weight on the front end of the motorcycle. Remove the handlebar if necessary.

2.    Remove the rubber cap from the top of each fork.

3.   The spring seat and fork spring are retained by a stopper ring (spring wire circlip). It is necessary to depress the spring seat and fork spring to remove the stopper ring. Remove the stopper ring by carefully prying out one end with a small screwdriver.

4. Place an open container under each drain hole. Remove the drain screw from each outer tube.

 

WARNING:
Do not allow oil to contact the disc brake components. If any oil should contact the brake components it must be removed before the motorcycle is operated. Oil will cause diminished braking capacity and will damage the rubber components of the brake assembly.

1. Drain screw

5.   When most of the oil has drained, slowly raise and lower the outer tubes to pump out the remaining oil.

6.    Inspect the drain screw gasket. Replace if damaged. Reinstall the drain screw.

7.    Pour the specified amount of oil into the fork inner tube.

Front fork oil (each fork):

262 cc (9.24 oz) Recommended oil:

Yamaha Fork Oil 10wt or equivalent

9. After filling, slowly pump the forks up and down to distribute the oil.

10.    Inspect the "O-ring" on the spring seat. Replace "O-ring" if damaged.

11.    Reinstall the spring seat, stopper ring and rubber cap.

 

CAUTION:
Always use a new stopper ring (spring wire circlip).

E. Rear Shock Absorber

If the spring seat is raised, the spring becomes stiffer and if lowered, it becomes softer.

Standard position................A

A. position.................Softest

E. position................ Stiffest

WARNING:
Adjust both the right and left sides to the same position.

F. Steering Head Adjustment

The steering assembly should be checked periodically for looseness.

1.    Raise the front end of the motorcycle so that there is no weight on the front wheel.

2.    Grasp the bottom of the forks and gently rock the fork assembly backward and forward, checking for looseness in the steering assembly bearings.

3.    If there is looseness in the steering head, loosen the steering stem and front fork pinch bolts and steering fitting bolt.

4.    Use a steering nut wrench to loosen top steering fitting nut. The top nut serves as a lock nut.

5.   Tighten the lower steering fitting nut until the steering head is tight, but does not bind when forks are turned.

6.    Retighten the top steering fitting nut, steering fitting bolt and steering stem and front fork pinch bolts, in that order.

7.    Recheck steering adjustment to make sure there is no binding when the forks are moved from lock to lock. If necessary, repeat adjustment procedure.

G. Cable Inspection and Lubrication

 

WARNING:
Damage to the outer housing of the various cables, may cause corrosion and often free movement will be obstructed. An unsafe condition may result so replace such cables as soon as possible.

1. If the inner cables do not operate smoothly, lubricate or replace them.

Recommended lubricant:

Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

H. Throttle Cable and Grip Lubrication

The throttle twist grip assembly should be greased when the cable is lubricated, since the grip must be removed to get at the end of the throttle cable. Two screws clamp the throttle housing to the handlebar. Once these two are removed, the end of the cable can be held high to pour in several drops of lubricant. With the throttle grip disassembled, coat the metal surface of the grip assembly with a suitable all-purpose grease to cut down friction.

I. Rear Arm Pivot Bearings

The swing arm must pivot freely on its bearings but not have any excess play. Check and adjust pivot bearings if necessary. (Refer to SWING ARM).

J. Brake and Change Pedals/Brake and Clutch Levers

Lubricate the pivoting parts of each lever and pedal.

Recommended lubricant: Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

K.Center and Side Stand Pivots

Lubricate the center and side stands at their pivot points.

Recommended lubricants: Yamaha Chain and Cable Lube or SAE 10W/30 motor oil

ELECTRICAL

A. Battery

1. The fluid level should be between the upper and lower level marks. Use only distilled water if refilling is necessary.

 

CAUTION:
Normal tap water contains minerals which are harmful to a battery; therefore, refill only with distilled water.

2. Always make sure the connections are correct when installing the battery. Make sure the breather pipe is properly connected, properly routed, and is not damaged or obstructed.

CAUTION:
The battery must be charged before using to insure maximum performance. Failure to properly charge the battery before first use, or low electrolyte level will cause premature failure of the battery. Charging current: 1.2 amps/10 hrs or until the specific gravity reaches 1.280 at 20°C (68°F)

WARNING:
Battery electrolyte is poisonous and dangerous, causing severe burns, etc. Contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote: EXTERNAL-Flush with water.

INTERNAL—Drink large quantities of water or milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.

Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention. Batteries produce explosive gasive gases. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate when charging or using in closed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

B. Spark Plug

1. Check the electrode condition and wear, insulator color and electrode gap.

2.    Use a wire gauge for measuring the plug gap.

3.    If the electrodes become too worn, replace the spark plug.

4.    When installing the plug, always clean the gasket surface. Wipe off any grime that might be present on the surface of the spark plug, and torque the spark plug properly.

Standard spark plug:

BP7ES (NGK) or W22EP (ND) Spark plug gap:

0.7 ~ 0.8 mm (0.028 ~ 0.032 in) Spark plug tightening torque:

2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

C. Headlight

1. Headlight bulb replacement a. Remove the 2 screws holding the light unit assembly to the headlight body.

b. Disconnect the lead wires and remove the light unit assembly.

c. Remove the top and bottom fitting screws and the horizontal adjusting screw. Remove the light unit assembly from the headlight rim.

d. Remove the sealed beam unit holding screws. Remove the unit retaining ring and the defective unit.

e.   Slip a new sealed beam unit into position and secure it with the retaining ring and install it into the headlight rim.

f.   Reinstall the light unit assembly to the headlight body. Adjust the headlight beam.

2. Headlight beam adjustment

a. Horizontal adjustment

To adjust the beam to the right, turn the adjusting screw clockwise.

To adjust the beam to the left, turn the screw counterclockwise.

b. Vertical adjustment:

Loosen the adjusting screw under the headlight body. Adjust vertically by moving the headlight body. When proper adjustment is determined, retighten the adjusting screw.

D. Fuse

The fuse block is located under the seat. If any fuse is blown, turn off the ignition switch and the switch in the circuit in question and install a new fuse of proper amperage. Then turn on the switches, and see if the electrical device operates. If the fuse immediately blows again, check the circuit in question (refer to "CHAPTER 6. ELECTRICAL").

WARNING:
Do not use fuses of a higher amperage rating than those recommended. Substitution of a fuse of improper rating can cause extensive electrical system damage and possible fire.